Saturday, 29 November 2014

London & New York AW14






So for another piece of research I have chosen to talk about AW14 I have chosen two make-up looks, one from New York fashion week and the other from good old London.

So First up London:

I have chosen to talk about John Pierre Braganza's AW14 show. I just loved hair and make up and thought it worked so well with the collection. The collection was inspired by Italian baroque artist Artemisia Gentileschi, she was a woman struggling in a man's world, so expressed through her art, John Pierre Braganza expressed this through his collection.





8. 'Sleeping Venus' by Artemisia Gentileschi 
 As you can see from the image below, the collection featured contrasting colours, the hair copycats this by incorporating contrasting hair extension strips into the braid.


9.
To see behind the scenes click here

The make up was done by Terry Barber who is the director of make up artistry at MAC, & hair was done by Indira Schauwacker for Toni & Guy with a team (Glam, UK, 2014). 

Make up how to:

-Create the perfect base by applying concealer / foundation to areas of concern and eyelids. Looking at the models I think they probably used MAC Face & Body, as its a very liquidy foundation but once worked a bit its becomes thicker and gives a lovely dewy finish. 

-Draw an elongated line along the top lash line using MAC Pro black crème liner. Follow process on lower lash line

-Draw a third line that mimics the lower line

-Using a liner pen press product on top of original lines. I love the eyeliner used, its very 60's and really opens up the models eyes, giving them a doe eyed appearance, its also very powerful which is the message the collection gives as well.

-Give lashes a good curl before coating top lashes with MAC in Extreme Dimension mascara. By only apply to the top lashes, it really makes the double line below the eyes stand out, if the bottom lashes had mascara on them they would be noticeable and draw the attention away from the eyeliner technique. 

-To finish press a mauve lipstick onto lips for a subtle stain, this was also used on the cheeks. Terry Barber used MAC Autumn/Winter Forecast palette for both. I love the fact they used the same palette on the cheeks and lips, it really brings the entire face together, and brings femininity back to the look which really balances the whole look.
(Glam, UK, 2014)

Hair how to:


-Apply Label M volume mousse and Label M resurrection dust into the roots and blast dry away from the face. This was done to give the hair texture and a masculine edge. I actually put volume mousse in my hair when its dry and blow dry, its great if your hair is
quite fly away and soft when if washed also for thin hair! Makes it easier to style and holds much better too! For a quicker fix on the go dry shampoo works really well too!

-Separate a section of hair around the halo and clip away.

-Apply contrasting coloured wefts along the diving line between the halo section and lengths using grips. I loved this idea its so clever and the final look was so effective, it mimics the collection so well.

-Bring colour sections to the front

-Divide lengths into two and twist into two braided pigtails, when twisting you want to twist the hair in the opposite direction to the direction you are wrapping the strands over one another, this ensures its secure.

-Bring colour sections back around and loop through braid using a hair loop/hair pin. This creates a 6 strand braid. This was the feminine, pretty side to the hair design.

-Finish with a mist of Label M hold and gloss spray, to ensure the sides are flat to the head. This created the powerful masculine image from face on.

- For models who had layered hair they used Label M wax stick, onto the hand than smoothed through the lengths of hair, to ensure the braid was slick and no hair was sticking out. I always have this problem when plaiting my own hair so it's such a great tip, I will definitely be purchasing this product!
(Glam, UK, 2014)


Products used

 Overall for this look, I honestly wouldn't have changed anything I think every detail has been thought about in this look, I think all the products had a place and without one of them the look wouldn't be what it is.

My favourite part was the hair, I loved the 2 X two strand braids woven together with hair wefts, thought it was original and inventive, and definitely something I want to try out! 

To see the catwalk show click here!

Rodarte AW14 New York:

The make up was done by James Kaliardos and team for NARS Cosmetics, the hair by Odile Gilbert and team for John Frieda hair care. The collection created by Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy. It was inspired by their childhood, you see mix of late 70,s and early 80's clothing, mixed with the galactic, spacey make up, which is inspired by Star Wars. The hair was accessorised with clips featuring butterflies, which were hand made for the show by the designers. It was inspired by Princess Lea from Star Wars when she lets her hair down out of her classic hair style (Miguel, 2014). 


18. Princess Leia from star wars


19. Rodarte's hair back view


Make up how to:


- Apply NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream to the face.

- Apply Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser onto face.

- Radiant Creamy Concealer to problem areas, making sure you blend in well.

- Pressed Powder from NARS to set.

- Apply Unlawful Blush (New for Fall 2014, onto apple of the cheek, and up along the cheekbone.
   
- Anguilla Matte Multiple along cheekbone, blend together well.
- Chocolate side of Dolomites Duo Eye shadow (New for Fall 2014)
 was applied all over lid and right up into the brow where it is also used, along with brow gel. I t was also brought down under the lower lash line. The eyes looked amazing such great autumnal colours, that complimented the colour and sparkle of the collection so well.
- Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara was applied to top lashes and a little to the bottom lashes.

- For the lighter lip colour:

El Agua Velvet Lip Liner Pencil (New for Fall 2014, was applied to prevent lips lipstick from bleeding.

Dominique Audacious Lipstick (New for Fall 2014)combined with Anguilla Matte Multiple was applied to the lips, they looked amazing, it was so glittery, and such a beautiful colour, it worked so well with the eyes.
For the darker lip:

Mambo Eye-liner was applied around the lip line, to make the lips bolder and to prevent the lipstick bleeding.

Deborah Audacious Lipstick (New for Fall 2014)combined with Rouge Tribal Larger Than Life Lip Gloss to the lips. This look was so intense, but once again worked so well with the collection. (Kaliardos and Ecochard, 2014)

Hair how to:

- Odile Gilbert started by coating models’ hair with the John Frieda Frizz Ease Daily Nourishment Leave-In Conditioner to hydrate strands. 

- Next, she pulled the hair into two sections and created two long braids, blow drying the hair while it remained within these braids so as to create a wavy texture. We actually practised this technique in a recent hair lesson, so its cool to see it in action on the catwalk. 

- Once hair was dry, Gilbert undid the braids and worked the John Frieda Frizz Ease Unwind Curl Calming Crème through strands so as to give the waves a less structured, more relaxed feel. 

- She then took a piece from the side, twisted it, and pulled it to the back of the head, securing this twisted section of hair with pins and with a butterfly-adorned barrette created by the Rodarte designers. 

- Last, she spritzed the John Frieda Luxurious Volume All-Day Hold Hairspray all over the hair so as to give it flexible hold. 

Overall the whole collection was really beautiful it glittered and travelled beautifully down the catwalk. The hair looked amazing the way if flowed and had a great healthy shine to it. It was quite refreshing to see a really extreme make up, as a the main focus for alot of shows was the eyeliner so it was nice to see a different look, which had just as much impact. I love the fact the skin was mattified, I think it made the eyes, cheeks, and lips 'pop' even more.   
Products used



To see the catwalk click here!


References:

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   YOUTUBE

   Backstage at JEAN PIERRE BRAGANZA AW14

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In text citations: 

GLAM UK

Tough Elegance at Jean Pierre Braganza

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'Click here' link:

YOUTUBE

Jean-Pierre Braganza London Fashion Week show: Jean-Pierre Braganza AW14 Collection

In-text: (YouTube, 2014)
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Rodarte intro: 
MIGUEL, C.Carefree Wavy Hair, Glowing Skin, and Galactic, Glittery Lips at Rodarte AW14 | SICKA THAN AVERAGE
In-text: (Miguel, 2014)
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Rodarte make up step by step: 

KALIARDOS, #. AND ECOCHARD, J.

LYRA MAG.: #NYFW Backstage Makeup-@Rodarte A/W 2014 by Nars Cosmetics/James Kaliardos

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Rodarte hair how to:

MIGUEL, C.

Carefree Wavy Hair, Glowing Skin, and Galactic, Glittery Lips at Rodarte AW14 | SICKA THAN AVERAGE

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'Click here' link: 

YOUTUBE

Rodarte Fall 2014 Fashion Show

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