Tuesday, 11 November 2014

Eyeliner Techniques

Fashion trends Lesson 5 Eye liner techniques 21/10/14, Tutor, Branka

Applying Eye-liner

Liquid eye-liner:
  • Use fine small brush
  • Get your model to close their eyes lift brow with finger
  • Mark a dot in the centre
  • Work your way from the dot outwards to both corners of the eye

Gel:
  • Use angle brush
  • Mark a dot in the middle
  • Start from inside corner and work your way down
  • Create the ‘flick’ by going back over yourself but covering a bigger area each time
  • Gel creates a thicker line

Step-by-step Guide (Tutor Demo):
  1. Cleanse models skin, leave liner in place.
  2. MAC PRO full coverage yellow tone with a touch of pink for Alicia.
  3. Branka used a foundation brush to lightly apply for a flawless skin
  4. Use Kryolan derma palette to mix concealer, Branka went for a neutral tone with a touch of yellow
  5. Branka used Pearl a light highlight from MAC, she placed on the apple of the cheek, under brow, top lip and on nose, blend in.
  6. Translucent neutral powder to set face, use smaller brush for eye area.
  7. Brush out brows
  8. D11, D15, from derma palette to fill in brow, it’s great to use as it makes brows look slick and holds a lot longer.
  9. Get creative with the liner and shadows
  10. Apply lip liner to lips
  11. Add lipstick Branka went for a neon pink

Overview & evaluation of the Lesson: 

I loved this lesson, my model had great skin, which has yellow undertones so I used the MAC face & body C3 mixed with the Kryolan derma palette I used a yellow tone and a slight pink tone, once I was happy I tested by the neck and I managed to nail her colour first time! Yay! 

I applied using a stippling sponge I much prefer these to a foundation brush as they don’t leave marks. Once I was happy with the coverage I used my bronzing brush to buff the skin to make sure there were no sponge marks and personally I feel it works really well with the MAC face and body as it’s such a liquidy product that it needs warming up and working for it to thicken up, so I think buffing it does this effectively and is quicker when you have a time limit, it also gives off a lovely dewy finish. 

When doing the eye-liner, we had to try both types of liner and brushes I much preferred the gel liner using the angle brush. It was a smooth and steady line; I felt I had much more control in contrast to using the small fine brush with the liquid liner, I don’t know of it was because the smallest brush in our kit isn't that firm, and is quite long which makes it more difficult to control, either way the angle brush is more for me, I like the stability of it. I was happy with my eye-liners, they were even and neat which is what I was aiming for, so am pleased about that...also if I was to make mistake with the MAC black track liner it would have been a nightmare, because once it dries its near impossible to get off without having to take off the whole eye and the make-up around it!!  

When doing the brow I decided to go for a thicker brow with definition...think- Cara Delevingne. So on the top line of the brow instead of doing one exact line I used small almost sketching strokes to make up the brow which I thought gave a really good effect. 

With the freestyle eye-liner I chose to do a Twiggy inspired eye, I had fun with the eyebrow so decided to carry the theme through, I created the dots under the lower lash line using MAC Black track eye-liner and my small angle brush. 

For the lips I decided to go for a hot pink, what I really loved about the colour is that it made my models eyes pop; they were a searing blue so the hot pink really complimented that! 

It was really nice to be able to do some freestyle stuff this lesson, as we haven’t done that yet! Looking forward to the next lesson!
Mac Vanilla pigment 
Inspiration for eye-liners from Branka

Branka's Demo

My gel liner with a small angle brush

My liquid liner with small thin brush 

Eye open

Finished look

Without the sectioning clips in!

Twiggy liner

Finished look






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