Saturday, 18 October 2014

Heavy contouring at home

So in class our teacher Branka gave us a tutorial in light and heavy contouring, and due to the class only being so long she gave us the heavy contouring as homework, so here is a run through of what techniques and products she used to create the heavy look, then I will put photos up of what I did and how I found it etc..
Branka's heavy contouring:

  

  • So if you see my earlier post on light contouring Branka used a La Maquillage Mandy gold palette, but this time instead of using as a concealer then going over the top with foundation and makeup mixer, just use it as the entire base, it you come across greyer areas, once again add D32 from Kryolan derma palette and go over with base to neutralise.
  • Use the Kryolan Derma palette to mix highlight and contour. This time highlight not only "C" section, along cheekbone and up to forehead but also below brow line, down nose, chin, and top lip. Branka used colours D8, D11, D15.


  • Then contour temples, cheekbone, down either side of highlight on nose and along jawline. Branka used colours D3, D7, and a little D1.
  • If you need to soften anywhere just go over with a little foundation.
  • Use MAC Vanilla pigment to highlight the cheeks, brows and forehead.
  • Groom brows and fill in using derma palette, then brush through again.
  • Mix a blush using Kryolan lip palette, and use the same on lips.

I personally am not a fan of wearing heavy contour as an everyday thing. I actually think it looks quite scary in person, but I can see why it would be good for a photo-shoot or in TV, film and theatre.
So I roped my 15 year old sister Daisy to let me experiment on her face!!
Skin prepped and bare
So I cleansed, toned and moisturised her face, and started to mix her colour, she is quite fair, she has quite an oil based skin so I don't think the La Maquillage palette is necessarily the best for her skin, as it's quite heavy and oily but you gotta work with what you've got! So I stuck to the lighter colours and used a darker beige added in from the derma palette (actual colour numbers to come soon!)
Starting to add in the contour around the highlight
with just the base on and highlight on nose


So I was pretty happy with the coverage I got but maybe it could of been a slightly darker tone. Also I should have gone lighter with the highlight but couldn't get it any lighter as my base was already mixed using the lightest colours in my palettes so really couldn't get it much lighter I'm definitely going to invest in some white MAC face and body paint and some highlighters! Any excuse to buy new make-up is good for me! 

                                               

 I was really happy with the eyebrow, which was more challenging than it was in class due to the fact my sister hasn't started grooming hers yet, therefore there's no definitive shape so I had to create one without plucking as she didn't want me to, so I actually had to cover up part of the brow!  



 So I thought I would do my sisters hair too so put in a one piece hair extension, I honestly think she has transformed, she looks a lot older than 15. In the flesh the make-up was very strong and 'in your face' but when photographing it is really effective. I think by filling in her brows so much it really has shaped her face and opened up her eyes. 


I also think that her lips look a lot fuller with lipstick applied despite not having liner on them. 
 



I think you can really see the contouring here around the nose, cheekbone and jawline, her face looks a lot more chiselled than usual.
 

Lesson Evaluation:
 

Overall I'm happy with the colour match I went with, I am getting a lot more confident with it now, but as I said earlier I do really think that I could have done with a lighter colour for highlighting to make it more effective, and maybe could've gone darker with the contour. 

I'm happy with the lip and blush colour with her skin tone. Also I think with the hair in she looks so different I think she has lovely hair as it is but with this sort of make-up I feel it really completes the look! 

For my first time contouring and without the reassuring presence of my teacher Branka in the room I'm quite pleased with the final outcome. I'm sure there'll be plenty more contouring to come once I've treated myself to some new additions to my make-up kit! 

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