20.01.15 contrasting fashion make-up, tutor, Branka Vorkapic

20.01.15 fashion make-up

Colour clashing fashion make-up

Clown white grease paint is a great  product to use as a base under colours as it makes the pigment look stronger.

Start at the eye, using ring finger apply clown white to lid up to the crease

Apply your chosen colour pigment to the lid covering the white.

Apply your lightest colour shadow mixed with beige, from the crease up to the brow.

Apply a Taupe colour in the crease of the eye using an eye shader brush.

Apply clown white grease paint to the water line, and to the lower lash line using a small brush, use a cotton bud to clean up and create a sharp clean line.

Apply contrasting colour of choice over the white water line, and on the lower lash line.

Mix models foundation colour using la maquillage colour.

Apply MAC face & body to create dewiness

Apply concealer if needed.

Set the foundation using translucent powder only a minimal amount.

Use MAC brow pencils to fill in the brows (3 step measurement) once filled brush brow hairs, check for any gaps and fill in if necessary.

Apply bronzer using a large fan brush, apply to everywhere the sun would hit the face.

Apply a contour using a contouring brush, mix browns from Ben Nye palette, and apply to the cheekbones, making sure you dust off any excess product before applying.

Apply mascara using a small fan brush

Choose a contrasting lip colour, using a lip brush

Apply Vaseline as a highlighter using fingers.

1. Branka's contrasting colours demo

2. My finished contrasting make up look

3. My finished look face on

4. My finished look eyes closed

5. My finished look close up of the eyes and brow

Lesson Evaluation:

I was really excited for this lesson, as I like to do out there make-up but we don't often get a chance so it was a breathe of fresh air.

I decided to choose orange as its my favourite colour, with a bright blue as I thought they really made each other pop. 

I teamed a hot pink lipstick with the look, to make it just that little bit brighter!

I was really happy with the final look, I felt my make up application was well executed apart from the brows I feel I needed to use a darker colour as you can really see the difference on camera, between the natural brow and the part I filled in. Apart from that I was really happy with my final look! 

References:

1. My tutor Branka Vorkapic's demo

2. My make-up finished look

3. My make-up face on

4. My make-up eyes closed

5. My make-up close up of eye and brow

20.01.15, hair, braiding techniques

Braiding Techniques:

What you'll need:

Hair Kit

Dolly Head

Clamp

Techniques covered:

Heart shaped French braid

Fish tail French braids

10 strand low side braid

So I didn't find anything on YouTube that I wanted to try but I found a picture of a heart shaped French braid so I attempted it just by copying the picture!

I decided to use my classmate Molly as my hair model as she has such long straight hair, which is perfect for braiding, as my dolly head hair gets really thin making it really hard to achieve an even braid.

Here is the picture:

1. Heart shaped French braid

The sectioning is pretty self explanatory as you can see above. I secured the lower section out of the way with a sectioning clip, to avoid confusion. I started by being in front of my model for the first bit so i was in front of what I was braiding; this made it much easier!

So I just did the normal French braid technique until I was reaching the end of the section, I then moved from the front of my model to the side to alter the direction of my braid.

Next I unclipped my lower section, and continued the French braid until I reached the bottom of the head and secured with a hair band.

2. My version right side

3. My version left side

Fishtail French braids:

So I did this style last week but only a small section, so I decided to do the entire style this lesson as I had Molly's lovely hair to work with. To see how to create this see my last post on braiding techniques.

Here is my version of fishtail French braids:

4. My French fishtail braid

5. My French fishtail braid

11 Strand braid:

So last lesson I did an 11 strand braid on my dolly head but as because of the length and thickness of the hair I couldn't do a l;ong one, so I decided to redo it on Molly as it would far more achievable with her hair:

It's not as daunting as it sounds really its one 5 strand plait with two 3 strand plaits woven into either side of it, therefore creating an 11 strand plait.

So to start I brushed through my models hair  and tied it into a low side pony.

I then took a strand of hair from the pony and wrapped it around the hair band to hide it I secured it using a grip concealed on the underside of the pony out of eye view.

 To start you have to split the pony into 3 sections, the middle being the largest, the side sections being smaller and the same size as each other.

Clip the two side sections out of the way to avoid confusion.

Next split your remaining section into 5 strands, the technique is just like weaving. I started on the right hand side, so I took the outer most section took it over the section next to it, then under the middle. Stop.

Now take the outer most section from the left take it over the section next to it, then under the middle section. Stop.

Back to the right hand side. Continue technique until you reach the bottom of the pony. Secure with a hair-band.

Now for the next part; Release one of your two side sections from the clip. Split into 3 strands. This is just the same as doing a normal 3 strand plait, with one exception; every time you go to take the left strand over the middle, take it under and through an outer loop of the 5 strand plait before. Obviously starting at the top loop, then the next and so on. 

When you reach the bottom, take the hair band off the 5 strand plait and re-tie including your 3 strand into it.

Repeat this technique with the final section, but instead of looping the left hand section, you'll be looping the right hand strand through as this section is on the opposite side of the 5 strand plait.

Here is what the result should look like:

6. My 11 strand plait

7. My 11 strand plait

Lesson Evaluation:

I really enjoyed the lesson today, especially working on real hair as its much easier to work with. Also the quality and length allowed me to do styles that I wouldn't have been able to do if I was using my dolly head. I'm really happy with everything I did in my lesson today.

References:

1. FARM5.STATIC.FLICKR.COM

In-text: (Farm5.static.flickr.com, 2015)

Bibliography: Farm5.static.flickr.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4385753235_161f6f6efe.jpg 

[Accessed 29 Jan. 2015]

2. My heart braid

3. My heart braid

4. My French fishtail braid

5. My French fishtail braid

6. My 11 strand braid

7. My 11 strand braid

13.01.15, hair, Braiding techniques

13.01.15 Hair, Braiding, Tutor, Sam Smart

Aim: Introduce braiding techniques.

Objective: Achieve a hairstyle incorporating a braiding technique.

Equipment: 

Dolly head

Clamp

Hair kit

Hair techniques covered:

Fishtail braid

Fishtail French braid

French braid

Dutch braid

Waterfall braid

So for this lesson we were got to experiment with different braids on our dolly heads. I absolutely love braiding so was in my element. I managed to cover quite a lot of different techniques.

So here is how to create them;

First up.... the fishtail:

So start of by brushing through the hair

Split the hair into two even sections

Start on whichever side is most comfortable, and take a small section from the outside of either the right or left section and cross it over the top of the section you took it from, and take it into the other section. You should have 2 sections again.

Next take a small section of hair from the outer side of your other section, cross over the top of the section you took it from, and take it into the other section. So once again you have 2 sections of hair.

Repeat steps, from either left to right, or right to left whichever way you decide, until you have made your way down the length of the hair. Secure with a hair band, and that’s your finished look.

It should look like this:

1. Fishtail braid

Fish tail French braid:

So the steps are exactly the same as above with one exception; instead of starting with 2 lengths of hair at the base of the head, you start at the front of the head or wherever you want fishtail to go. I parted the hair in the middle; creating 2 sections so I could have 2 fishtail French braids.

Take a section from the front, split into 2, start off with doing the crossover technique from above a couple of times, now for the third time, instead of taking another small section from the outer section of one of your sections, you want to take a small section from the loose hair and cross that over make sure you pull it tight to the head, repeat and work your way down the head, until you get to the base of the head and have no more hair to pull into the braid. 

You then return to the basic fishtail technique, until you have reached the bottom of the hair. Secure with a hair band.

Repeat on the other section so you’re left with 2 fishtail French braids.

This is how it should look:

2. French fishtail

French Braid:

Start off by brushing through the hair.

Split into however many sections you want depending on how many braids you are creating. I just did a small a section running from the front in the middle of the head, to the base of the head.

Take a section from the front of your section and split into 3 strands. It’s really important that you are able to hold the strands comfortably in your hand; otherwise you can get quite confused, and or tangled!

Start off by doing you standard 3 strand plait; right section over the middle; so the right section now becomes the middle, the left section over the middle; so the left section becomes the middle, right section over the middle, left section over the middle; after about 2 rounds of this start bringing in sections from the rest of the hair;

So when you take the right section over the middle section, you will also take a small amount of hair from the loose hair and take it with the section you crossed over.

Next take the left section, and take over the middle section, then take a small section of hair from the left side of loose hair and take over with the section you just crossed over.

Repeat until you've made your way down the head, when you've done this continue with a standard 3 strand plait till you have reached the end of the hair. Secure with a hair band.

3. French braid

Dutch braid:

This is exactly the same as above with one exception, instead of crossing strands over the middle section, take them under!

4. Dutch braid

Waterfall Braid:

So this braid gives a lovely pretty result, I think it looks best when the hair is half up half down.

For the half up half down look, you want to part the hair in the middle so you have 2 equal sections.

Then split both the sections into two from the ear horizontally to the back of the hair. So now you will have 4 sections in total.

The bottom 2 will be left as they are so you don’t need to worry about them.

With one of the top sections take a small amount from the front split into 3, then cross the right section over the middle section, the middle section will now become the right hand section, you want to drop it, and take a new section of hair from the right side.

Next take the left section and cross over the middle. Take another section of hair from the left side and cross that over the middle too, in French braid fashion.

Take your new right section, and cross over the middle section; the middle section will now become your right hand section, once again drop this section. Then pick up a new section from the right hand side.

Repeat steps until you have reached the back of the head.

The dropped sections represent the waterfall, once you reach the back of the head, pin hair in place using a cross grip technique.

This is how the end result should look:

5. Waterfall braid from the left side

6. Waterfall braid from the right side

Lesson Evaluation:

I really enjoyed this lesson, I like just being left to play around and experiment, with the hair. I love experimenting with hair so it was really refreshing, to be allowed to do it for the whole lesson! We have been set homework for next lesson to look at YouTube braiding find a style you haven't done and practising it, so that next lesson, we can show off what we have learnt. 

References:

1. IMAGES.TOTALBEAUTY.COM

In-text: (Images.totalbeauty.com, 2015)

Bibliography: Images.totalbeauty.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://images.totalbeauty.com/uploads/editorial/lg420x280/how-to-do-a-fishtail-braid-tutorial-step-by-step.jpg [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].

2. TRENDS-STYLE.COM

In-text: (Trends-style.com, 2015)

Bibliography: Trends-style.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://trends-style.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/french-fishtail2.jpg [Accessed 29 Jan. 2015].

3. My own French braid

4. My own Dutch braid

5. My own waterfall braid

6. My own waterfall braid

13.01.15 First makeup lesson back!

Cover look for a magazine

Step-by-step:

 Prep skin

 Moisturise models face

Mix a liquid highlighter with a little moisturiser apply to models face using foundation brush.

 MAC face & body C1 & C3 with a little of the highlighter apply using bronzer brush in circular motions, starting from the middle of the face and working your way outwards.

Liquid concealer as it is much lighter than crème concealers, which have a tendency to crease up more, and show up on camera.

 Apply a minimal amount of translucent powder under the eye.

 Using glamour glow palette from Kryolan: Branka used a mixture of the 2 gold tones, apply a dusting over the face using a fan brush, to ensure a light application.

Apply the darker tone along the cheek bone to contour using a foundation brush, don’t be too heavy.

Apply MAC soft & gentle highlighter above the contour using the same fan brush.

Using a Kryolan derma palette, Branka applied a combination of D7 & D11, to the brows using a small flat brush; fill in using small brush strokes to keep the look natural. Finish with brow gel.

Branka used Gold mine crème eye shadow from Cosmetics A La Carte, she applied all over lid up to crease using a small eye brush, she then took a large eye brush and blended up towards the brow. 

Using Aqua seal from Revolution (an eye shadow primer) apply a small amount to the back of your hand, then dab over lid, carefully apply gold leaf to the lids, Branka layered it up so there was a lot of texture. 

Branka then applied gold glitter over the gold leaf using a small eye brush and a small amount of primer.

Apply mascara using a small fan brush.

Branka used lip liner from MAC in shade Chestnut, a very dark brown to line the lips, she went into the lip with the liner creating a very thick outline.

She then went in using a sheer burgundy lip stick using a lip brush, not covering the liner, so created an Ombre lip; the reason she did this was because brown is the colour in between gold and burgundy so it brings everything together.

Branka then drew on a beauty spot using cake liner mixed with Aqua seal to make it waterproof, just below the eye, using a small pointed brush.

Branka then took a small amount Vaseline on her ring finger, and applied to all parts of the face that natural light would hit it.

Branka said she would finish this look off by matching it with really loose finger waves on top, finishing with a really sleek side ponytail. Then a pointed burgundy nail.

1. Branka's Demo

2. Close up of Branka's gold leaf eye

 Evaluation of lesson:

   So today we were given our project brief, which is; to create hair and makeup in the style of a high end fashion magazine cover, (for example; i-D, Vogue, Harpers Bazaar etc) taking inspiration from SS15 hair and makeup trends. We then have to organize a shoot which means recruiting a model, photographer and studio space.

I'm really excited about it, as soon as it was read out a bunch of ideas started forming in my head, so I'm really excited, although a little nervous to go out and source a model and photographer.

So watch this space....

Vogue

Vogue magazine is arguably the most well known and respected fashion and lifestyle magazine in the world. It was founded by Arthur Turnure, and it was first published in 1892 in the USA. 

It was taken over in 1905 a year before Turnure's death by Conde Montrose Nast, who took it to England first, then France, and Italy, and turned it into one of the more premier fashion magazines; he is the man responsible for giving it the reputation it still has today.

1. First ever Vogue cover in 1892

It is now produced globally in England, Japan, China, Italy, France, and many other countries.

I would say that it's reader is a women from ages; 30- 50, who has a high flying career, or a rich husband, who are fashion and lifestyle conscious and has money to spend.. and lots of it! 

On the other hand it's campaigns and advertisements are used as inspiration for young girls, teens and gals in their 20's. I know I used to rip out the pages and stick them to my wall!! I definitely still look to them for inspiration for projects and make up trends.

For the younger Vogue lover they have a teen Vogue so pretty much everyone is catered for!

The current editor for the British Vogue is Alexandra Shulman, she is the longest running editor in British Vogue history; despite being criticized for her appearance and some of Vogue's content, such as: some models used being too skinny and looking ill, she has maintained the magazines sterling reputation. 

2. Vogue Japan cover

Vogue magazine varies depending on the country, Japan's version is far more out there, their makeup is far more edgy, whilst still being extremely clean, and crisp.

3. Vogue Italia

Whereas Vogue Italia is far more classical beauty, and features real, and sometimes provocative articles. One of it's issues that featured only black models to make a point that black models are rarely ever used, sold out all its copies.... twice! So had to reprint, this is the first time this has ever happened in the history of Italian Vogue. 

4. French Vogue

French Vogue is similar to Vogue Italia, it features classic beauty, but I feel is more chic, I mean Parisian style is envied and looked up to all over the world! 

5. British Vogue 

British Vogue on the other hand I feel focuses more on catering its articles for its audience. Like I wouldn't choose to read it, as the majority of the items are out of my price range, whereas I would look at it's campaigns for inspiration as they are always done so well! 

References:

1. UPLOAD.WIKIMEDIA.ORG

In-text: (Upload.wikimedia.org, 2015)

Bibliography: Upload.wikimedia.org, (2015). [online] Available at: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cf/Vogue%2C_portada_de_mayo_de_1917.jpg [Accessed 17 Jan. 2015].

2. MEDIA1.POPSUGAR-ASSETS.COM

In-text: (Media1.popsugar-assets.com, 2015)

Bibliography: Media1.popsugar-assets.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://media1.popsugar-assets.com/files/2013/08/07/702/n/1668379/3f87bd71972d331e_voguejapan.xxxlarge_2x/i/Cara-Delevingne-photographed-Patrick-Demarchelier-Vogue-Japan.jpg [Accessed 17 Jan. 2015].

3. 40.MEDIA.TUMBLR.COM

In-text: (40.media.tumblr.com, 2015)

Bibliography: 40.media.tumblr.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://40.media.tumblr.com/5e7fe950700fc98e65d7b7f9af0dbc3a/tumblr_mlm6firSbG1soa1nio1_1280.jpg [Accessed 17 Jan. 2015]. 

4. JADETRIBE.S3.AMAZONAWS.COM

In-text: (Jadetribe.s3.amazonaws.com, 2015)

Bibliography: Jadetribe.s3.amazonaws.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://jadetribe.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Vogue-Paris-June-2013-Cover.jpg [Accessed 17 Jan. 2015].

5. LDNFASHION.COM

In-text: (Ldnfashion.com, 2015)

Bibliography: Ldnfashion.com, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.ldnfashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/emma-watson-vogue-uk-cover-dec-10.jpg [Accessed 17 Jan. 2015].