End of term assessment hair

So we had our hair assessment for the catwalk look we had chosen; as you know from my former posts I chose to do the SS15 look from Tanya Taylor.

To start I made sure all of my kit was clean and I had everything I needed with me; this included my laminated A3 mood-board, which included; a hair and face chart, key products, brief step-by-step & timings, as well as picture references of my chosen look and make up used in the show.

 I set up following all health and safety regulations, made sure I had washed my hands.

I bought 2 products in preparation for this assessment, that were the same as what they used for the actual catwalk- the only difference being they were a different brand; Schwartskopf got2b POWDER'ful volumizing root powder, and Schwartskopf got2b beach salt spray. 

I recreated the look on my dolly head. 

I started by brushing through the hair using a denman brush, starting from the bottom then working my way up. 

I then put the hair into a middle parting using my pintail comb.

I then straightened the full head section by section, applying heat protection spray to my dolly head before hand. 

I then dressed the front of the hair the look was the hair was tucked behind the models ears and extremely groomed to the head, then from the middle of the hair there was texture, which fell into 2 loose 3 strand plaits, that hung behind the shoulders. It looked uniformed from the front, and quite relaxed at the back. 

I applied the root powder throughout the scalp then massaged in using my fingers. I then used my postiche brush, to smooth the hair flat to the head, the first problem I encountered was not being able to tuck the hair behind the ears as my dolly head doesn't really have ears!! So I secured hair behind the ears using a grip, then hid the grip with the hair. My dolly head also has small flyaway strands so I sparayed the top of the head with hairspray and secured the loose strands by smoothing down with my postiche brush.

I then sprayed the salt spray through the hair, from the middle through to the ends, to create texture. I used my pintail comb to separate the hair into two sections. I then plaited the hair loosely starting from the middle to keep them loose like in the actual show. I then secured the plaits using small black elastics. I checked the hair style over again to make sure I didn't have any touch ups. 

My teacher Emma came over to look over and assess my style, I wasn't told what grade I got but my techer pointed out I there shouldn't be elastics in the hair, there wasn't any in the show, I was gutted that I'd missed it, I rectifyed the hair to get pictoral references. 

Evaluation:

Overall I was happy with my final look, besides the elastics, I thought it fitted the brief well, and I achieved a good result especially working on the dolly head which is so much harder to control than actual hair.

Hair before I started

Hair after Id straightened it

Me in action spraying the hair

Finished look from the back

Finished look side view left

Finished look side view right

Finished look straight on

After I removed the elastics and back-combed the ends to secure

Finished look straight on

End of term assessment

So we had our end of term formative assessment,  and it went really really well! Yaay!

As you know from my former posts I chose to do the SS15 look from Tanya Taylor.

To start I made sure all of my kit was clean and I had everything I needed with me; this included my laminated A3 mood-board, which included; a hair and face chart, key products, brief step-by-step & timings, as well as picture references of my chosen look and make up used in the show.

 I set up following all health and safety regulations, made sure I had washed my hands, placed gown on my model and turned on the lights around my mirror. I made sure the chair my model was sat in was at the right height.

I started by prepping my models skin making sure I assessed it first, checking for conditions, cuts & irritations. Once I had made sure the products id be using were ok, I cleansed toned and moisturised.

I started with the eyes, so I could clean up any droppage without ruining the base, as we don't have any metallic or shimmer shadows in our kit, I brought in my own shadow palette that contains a rose gold colour which is a perfect match in colour to what they used at Tanya Taylor for darker skin tones. I applied this to the lid using a medium eye shader brush, I applied this right to the crease and then blended out up towards the brow. I then applied MAC haute and naughty mascara with my mascara applicator brush on both the top and bottom lashes. I had given myself 10 mins to do this stage and I was within the time, so that chilled me out a bit more!

I then moved onto the base; I used MAC studio fix fluid in shade NC45 it was a lovely tone on my models skin, I applied with a foundation brush, then buffed in to remove any brush lines,  using a bronzer brush; I feel that it gives the skin a really lovely dewy glow. I then applied concealer to the problem areas, I used my MAC concealer palette I mixes the darkest shade, with a little pink and yellow. I applied using a concealer brush, then buffed in using my bronzer brush again.

I managed to finish the base in 10 minutes which I was so happy with as I was most nervous about this part! My model has a very complex skin tone which I fond difficult to match, so I was so proud of myself for achieving what I did!

I then moved onto the brows; my model has extremely thin well groomed brows so I found it really difficult to get the look of just brushed through thick brows, I just gently filled them in with my MAC eyeliner using small strokes.

Next I did the cheeks; 3 different products were used on the cheek at the Tanya Taylor show these included albatross highlighting powder, Siam matt multiple, and Laguna illuminator all from NARS; none of which I have in my kit or a close alternative! So I had to think on my feet, the first I made was the Laguna illuminator; I used the foundation I had used before, mixed in moisturiser and MAC vanilla pigment it actually worked perfectly! I applied this along the cheekbones using my hands (obviously checking that this was ok with my model first!). I then mixed the colour of the Siam matt multiple which is an orangey red, using my Kryolan lip palette, I then applied this to the apples of the cheeks using my hands and blending well. I then applied MAC vanilla pigment above the the illuminator, along the cheekbone, to mimic the Albatross highlighting powder.

I then moved onto the lips; my models lips were quite dry so I put Vaseline on them, then exfoliated using a toothbrush (a brand new one I have them in my kit) I then wiped with a tissue, this removed all the excess dry layers of skin. It was a matt orange lipstick, which I also don't have in my kit so I used the bright orange in my La Maquillage concealer palette which worked really great! I applied quite a few layers, setting each layer with translucent powder; I did this by placing a tissue over the lip then brushing on the powder over the tissue. 

I had finished! And I still had time left!! 

Evaluation:

Overall I'm really proud of my performance today, I worked efficiently, made sure I looked after my model, and used my initiative when having to make products. My teacher Branka was really pleased with the final look and how I created it, she gave me a high merit, in fact one mark off a distinction, I was a little disappointed that I didn't achieve higher, it was down to the brows, which I found really difficult as the hair was really coarse so hard to manipulate plus they had just been waxed so were so neat and thin, but I will take it on board and achieve higher next time....hopefully! I have thoroughly enjoyed the last two terms  and can't wait to see what is thrown at us after Christmas!

Finished look

Finished look eyes closed

Close up of the lips

Close up of the eyes

Health & Safety & Etiquette in the work place

Having good etiquette and following health and safety are the most important things whilst working in the make up industry. 

You will not be taken seriously or asked or recommended to anyone else if you have bad etiquette. The top 10 things to remember are:

1. Health & Safety for example:

- Make sure all your kit is clean, and your set up tidy this reflects on you as a make up artist.
- Make sure you set up in a convenient place, not in the way.
- Have high levels of personal hygiene!! You are in close proximity to your artist, so make sure you are clean, have clean nails, and fresh breath, always wash hands or if there is no running water  on set carry anti bacterial hand gel with you!
- Wear the correct clothing and footwear, nothing too revealing, or opened toe in case of stuff dropping on your feet!

2. Listen! Keep your ears open!! Last minute changes can always be made, or adjustments, if you are unsure always ask!

3. Always check in with your supervisor when you arrive, in case you have more jobs on the day which weren't in the brief.

4. If you need to leave for any reason always let someone know and get yourself covered- if you need a toilet break, or have to take a phone call.

5. Be efficient and plan so you don't hold up others, time is money!

6. Avoid cursing and distasteful jokes, out of respect for people around you.

7. Don't bring your problems to work, as moods are contagious!

8. Do not go out on a bog night before work if it's going to effect your performance, one night could be the cost of loosing well paid work!

9. When working with a photographer always wait and do onset checks when the photographer asks! Always check make up through camera in case it looks different and needs touching up!

10. Take only the stuff you'll need to work, if you take everything it will become ridiculously heavy! But carry what I call 'crossovers' for example, mixing medium, lip balm etc, you never know when you might need them!!

Face charts 02.12.14

S today in class out tutor Branka showed us how to create face charts. 

As a make-up artist you will be expected to do face and hair charts often not only for yourself but for clients and whoever needs to see the look. 

The best thing to colour in with is eye-shadow, as they blend really well, so you can keep layering the colour, also if you use water colours the paper wrinkles. 

Our tutor used our aqua colour palette from Kryolan to colour in the eyes and lips. 

Branka's first layer of light Eye shadow from Ben Nye colour palette

Branka's second layer darker shadow from Ben Nye palette is layered on top & brows are added.

Branka's next step shading the eyes, and colouring in the colour around the pupil

Lashes are added, and lips.

My version 

I enjoyed learning about how to do a face chart, I will be practising them to get quicker as our tutor told us that if you work on for a make-up company you are expected to complete face charts for customers in 10-15 minutes!

Miss Dior handbags SS13

I have chosen Dior SS13 campaign Miss Dior handbags featuring Jennifer Lawrence as the face.

1.

 The photographer was, Willy Vanderperre, styling was done by, Olivier Rizzo, the hair was done by, Anthony Turner, and the make up by, Aaron de Mey.

2.

 The hair featured a middle parting, and was pulled away from the face in a timeless chignon. It had a slight wave at the front to create shape and texture.

3.
 The make up saw a fresh, clean face, it was very minimal but also very striking. I'm not sure what products were used, but I would guess that they used Diorskin star foundation which is a medium coverage foundation, it brightens the skin and leaves a glowing coverage, which is exactly how Jennifer Lawrence's skin looks in the campaign...obviously with a little help from photoshop!

4.

Ilove the lip colour on the photo on the right, I think they would have used Diorific haute couture long lasting lipstick in shade ICONE, which is a dark red, and matt, it is my go to on a night out, it also smells amazing!

I love how mimimal all the make up is as Dior is known for having quite dramatic and statement make up, so its nice to see it stripped back. I think Jennifer Lawrence looks amazing, the styling is done perfectly making the bag the star, whilst still keeping the clothes stunning and feminine although many feature trouser suits!

The veil netting over the face reminds me of one of my all time favourite fashion shots; Cecil Beaton's 1934 'Hat Box' but more of the recreation done by famous photographer Rankin;

5. Left: The recreation, Right: The Original

Overall it's one of my all time favourite campaigns, I think it reflects Dior as a brand so well in the sense that its timeless and classic, it will never go out of fashion, they've created this image with the styling, hair, and make up which I think is very clever!


References:

1. I.MODELS.COM

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Anthony Turner

I have chosen to talk about Anthony Turner for my second hair inspiration.

Mood board of Anthony Turners work 

He is a British hair stylist born in Staffordshire. He is best known for fashion and editorial hair. He has worked for so many massive names such as; Topshop & Topman, Chanel, Vogue- British, Italian, and American, i-D magazine, Erdem, Chloe, and Michael Kors... To name a few!

8. Anthony Turner 

His editorial work is amazing whether its a more simple style to an extreme avant garde style. He also does a lot of catwalk shows so is quick, on his toes, and extremely creative, things which I aspire to do or be able to do in a pressured situation! 

'He is best known for session styling, he has worked alongside L’Oréal Professionnel at a number of showcases in New York, Amsterdam, Milan and Paris. In 2013, he was nominated as the brand's styling ambassador. He has been short listed for the ‘Session Stylist of the Year’ awards at Creative Head magazine's Most Wanted Awards, alongside other luminaries such as Sam McKnight, Tina Outen and Eugene Souleiman.

Turner began his career working as an assistant for hairdressing chain Toni & Guy in the British midlands in 2003. On moving to London in 2005, the young hairstylist secured a position at the award winning boutique salon Taylor Taylor, before landing a position as an assistant at New York Fashion Week with the master stylist Guido Paulo, eventually becoming a full time member of his team in New York' 9(Businessoffashion.com, 2014).

10.

11.

The two images above are a couple of my favourites they are from a feature in I-D magazine. I love the way the hair from both the models merge into one, this theme continues throughout both the images, the models look like they are joined together, like Siamese twins, by the clothing, and the same make-up application as one another as well as the hair.

The hair has so much texture, particularly in the first image. If I were to try to recreate these images, I would start by putting texture and volume into the hair; I would run volumising mousse through the hair, followed by blast drying, then maybe use a large crimper, or the rick-racking technique we have recently been taught, (for the bottom image I think hot sticks or a curling tong have been used) Then I would use a postiche brush to back comb sections of the hair to give it that 'extra large' look. I would finish with hairspray.

References:

1. I.MODELS.COM

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Bibliography: I.models.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://i.models.com/i/db/2011/8/56073/56073-800w.jpg [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].

2. I.MODELS.COM

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3. I.MODELS.COM

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4. I.MODELS.COM

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5. I.MODELS.COM

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6. I.MODELS.COM

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10- In text citation:

BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Anthony Turner | BoF 500 | The Business of Fashion

In-text: (Businessoffashion.com, 2014)

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Mood Board for final assessment

My mood board for my formative assessment

Unfortunately I cannot rotate my picture! Really annoying but you get the jist of it! So it includes simple step by step of what I'm going to do in both my hair and make up assessment. 

I have chosen to do the make up and hair from Tanya Taylor's SS15 show.

1.

Hair:

2.

3.

- Set up following all health and safety regulations, such as making sure all my kit is clean, making sure I assess my models skin for infection, that shes ok with the products I will be using, making sure my bags are all away, that I have in work place etiquette.

- I will be sectioning the hair and straightening the whole head applying heat protection spray to each section. Making sure I put the hair into a middle parting.

- I will then smooth Vitapoint conditioning cream through the hair, to give it a lovely shine, and then I will apply Schwarzkopf got2b POWDER'ful volumizing styling powder, to the roots to give the hair texture.

- Next I will make sure the hair from root to middle of length is smooth and flat to the head, I will secure this using hairspray.

- Next I will bring hair to the back of neck split into 2 sections and spray with Schwarzkopf got2b texturising salt spray to give the hair texture.

 - I will then make 2 separate 3 strand plaits, keeping them pretty loose, securing with small elastics.

- Complete finishing touches, then finish with hairspray.

Make-up:

- Set up, following all health and safety regulations

- Prep models skin, making sure she is ok with products I am using, checking if she has any allergies, or is wearing contact lenses.

- I will be doing the eyes first to make sure that I don't ruin my base with any droppage and applying mascara to the top lashes only. I plan to use the rose gold shimmer shadow from an MUA palette I have mimicking the one used from NARS for the actual catwalk show.

- I will be applying 2 different tones of foundation as my model has different shades in her skin, I have previously done her make up before and used this technique and it worked really well! 

- For the darker tone I will be using MAC face and body in shade N9, mixed with the yellow from my MAC concealer palette.

- For the lighter tone I will be using MAC face and body in C6, mixed with the darkest colour in my MAC concealer palette. I will be applying the darker colour to the lighter skin areas on my model and vice versa.

- I will then apply the darkest concealer colour from my MAC concealer palette to problem areas if needed.

- I will then be using my Kryolan lip palette to match the colour of NARS Siam matt multiple which is what Kabuki used in Tanya Taylor's SS15 show. I will also be using MAC vanilla pigment to mimic NARS albatross highlighting blush. I'm not sure what product I will be using to mimic the NARS Laguna illuminator yet as I have nothing similar in my kit, I will let you know in my post on the actual assessment.

- I will then brush through the brows, fill in using my MAC brow pencils, then brush through with brow gel.

- I'm not sure what I will be applying to the lips yet as I don't have an orange in my kit so will let you know in my overview of the assessment which I will be posting on here.

- Hopefully I will have enough time left to do any necessary touch ups if needed.

Wish me luck!!

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