Sunday, 7 December 2014

Assessment research

So for our formative assessment we have been put into pairs and the whole class has been given, the same 4 looks to choose from, either;


1. Zac Posen SS15


2. Tanya Taylor SS15

3. Burberry AW14
4. Marc Jacobs AW14

We will have 1 hour to complete our chosen look on or partner, and 1 hour to do the hair from the look on our dolly heads using at least one heated appliance.

I have been paired with Zainab.
5. Zainab with a smokey eye from a previous lesson 
In terms of me choosing the look I want to recreate, I have to take my model into consideration and what will both suit her the best and what will show off my make up application the best, so instantly I narrowed it down to Zac Posen's and Tanya Taylor's SS15 looks. I did this because I think the bold lip colours would look amazing against my models skin tone.

Zac Posen

Make-up: 

Kabuki was the make up artist, he wanted to create a fresh dewy skin with a graphic lip. He used products from MAC to create the look. A peachy concealer was placed beneath the eyes to brighten and widen the eyes. 

A lip and cheek product from MAC was used for both the eyelids and the cheeks, I would guess that MAC's Casual Colour was used in shade Hi Jinks! As this is a really versatile and blendable product, that can really be worked in and made to look barely there, or you can not work the product as much, I feel that Kabuki really worked it on the cheeks but didn't so much on the eyelids.


6. MAC Casual Colour
As for the lips a liner was used, because Kabuki wanted a really heavy pigmented graphic look I think that he would have used MAC's Cremestick Liner in shade Red Enriched. Because its much more pigmented in comparison to their other lip liners. I would have thought that the whole lip was filled in with the liner due to the fact that there is an orange tone to the lip colour which would be achieved perfectly by placing the liner over the whole lip first, then going over with the lipstick.


7. MAC Cremeliner

 The lipstick was matte but I think it was most likely shade Ruby Woo matt MAC lipstick. Its the classic pillar box red and probably MAC's most famous colour or product! 

The hair:

Odile Gilbert was behind the hair creating a just out of the water look, this was done with lots and lots of gel so the models hair looked dripping wet. The actual style of the hair varied from model to model, some sported side parting with an almost quiff at the front then hair tied in a low pony at the back, whilst others sported the same side parting and quiff but hair was left down but kept at the back away from the face.

My thoughts on the look: 

I love this look, the skin looks amazing, so fresh and dewy, I love the contrast between the matt lip and the sheen on the eyes.
The hair looks really slick and sleek, and I like that there's some lift there and it's not flat to the head like alot of designers were doing. 
I really liked this look, I think that it would look great on my model the red would really pop and get that graphic look that was created.

I played around with my Kryolan lip palette to see if I could get a bold red I mixed LC104, with LC007 on the back of my hand, the colour I thought was a match to the photos of the Zac Posen show, because of the orange tone, but it is a sheen palette so wouldn't be viable!  


8. Lip colour swatches
For the eyes I tried out 3 colours, for the first two I used my Kryolan lip colour palette, I mixed LC142, with LC004 this created the far left colour below.

The middle colour below was created by mixing LC142, LC149, & LC006.

The last was done using Au Naturelle from my Ben Nye colour palette, then working Vaseline over the top, to give it the sheen in the image.

Out of all 3 I think the first one is the best as it could be used for both the eyes and cheeks. 


9. Eye colour swatches
For the foundation I would use the MAC face and body as its light coverage, which would be perfect for achieving the natural, dewy skin. I would then use my Kryolan derma palette to conceal problems areas if there are any. I also think that strobe cream could work well to achieve the dewy effect if the MAC face and body wasn't enough!

The eyebrows are groomed but not filled in so I would simply run some brow gel through them.



Tanya Taylor

The look - "The Tanya Taylor women is always crisp, fresh and bold. She loves a surprise and appreciates the unexpected. Her make-up mirrors that expression again this season wit classically radiant and highlighted skin combined with a shockingly bright orange-red lip" (Facebook.com, 2014) 

Make up: 

The make up was created by Uzo for NARS cosmetics to create the look she used:

FACE
Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer
Radiant Creamy Concealer


CHEEKS
Copacabana Illuminator
Laguna Illuminator (for darker skin tones)
Anguilla Matte Multiple
Siam Matte Multiple (for darker skin tones)

EYES
Goddess Soft Touch Shadow Pencil
Skorpios Soft Touch Shadow Pencil (for darker skin tones)
Albatross Highlighting Blush
Nepal Shimmer Eyeshadow
Larger Than Life® Lengthening Mascara

LIPS
Playa Dorado Velvet Lip Liner
Timanfaya Satin Lip Pencil 


All products are available from narscosmetics.co.uk



10. Tanya Taylor SS15

The Hair:


11. Tanya Taylor SS15


The hair was created by Allan Wood for Bumble and Bumble.

The models sported sharp middle partings, hair was sleek to the head without looking like it contained loads of product. Loose 3 strand plaits were then created at he back.

 He used thickening spray for the front of the hair to achieve the sleek uniformed look at the front. 

He then used Dryspun finish which is a texturing spray which is powdery and clear to give the braids the untidy looser texture. 

The look complemented the collection really well, perfectly portraying a casual, chic summertime look. The collection featured girly prints and pops of bright colour.

I did 2 face charts one of each of the make up and hair;


12. Zac Posen face chart

I used my Ben Nye palette for shading (A mix of all the browns), hair (Cocoa brown) and the eyes (Au naturelle for the lids, and cocoa brown for the eye colour). I applied the color using a medium eye blending brush I used a smaller eye brush for the eyes.

I used my Aqua colours for the lips, I applied with a lip brush.

I drew the eyelashes with a black gel pen. 


13. Tanya Taylor face chart
 I used my Ben Nye colour palette for the face, using all brown shades.

I used my aqua colours for the lips and hair.

I used my own eye shadow shimmer palette from Revlon for the eye lids which looks completely different in comparison to how it looked on my hand. 

Overall I have decided to do the Tanya Taylor SS15 look on my model for my formative assessment, as I think the look will look great on her, her skin colour will compliment the orange look and rose shimmer on the lids perfectly. 

I will be posting a mood board with my final products and steps soon!






References:

Zac Posen:

1. AXBEAUTY.COM

In-text: (Axbeauty.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Axbeauty.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.axbeauty.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Zac-Posen.jpg [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014].

2. WGSN.COM

In-text: (Wgsn.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Wgsn.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/blogs/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Tanya_Taylor_tny_ss15_032_h1-682x1024.jpg [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014]. 

3. S1.YIMG.COM

In-text: (S1.yimg.com, 2014)
Bibliography: S1.yimg.com, (2014). [online] Available at: https://s1.yimg.com/bt/api/res/1.2/rpGS2JliAuSNycuXKD6rQg--/YXBwaWQ9eW5ld3M7cT04NTt3PTYwMA--/http://media.zenfs.com/en_GB/News/GraziaBeauty/2014_AW14_LOOK_BTS_05_0.jpg [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014].

4. TALKINGWITHTAMI.COM

In-text: (Talkingwithtami.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Talkingwithtami.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.talkingwithtami.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/nars_marc_jacobs_aw14_select_36.jpg [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014]

5. My own photo

6. MACCOSMETICS.CO.UK

MAC Cosmetics UK | Lipstick | Casual Colour | Official UK Site

In-text: (Maccosmetics.co.uk, 2014)
Bibliography: Maccosmetics.co.uk, (2014). MAC Cosmetics UK | Lipstick | Casual Colour | Official UK Site. [online] Available at: http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/168/22053/Products/Lips/Lipstick/Casual-Colour/index.tmpl [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014].

7. MACCOSMETICS.CO.UK

MAC Cosmetics UK | Lip Pencil | Cremestick Liner | Official UK Site

In-text: (Maccosmetics.co.uk, 2014)
Bibliography: Maccosmetics.co.uk, (2014). MAC Cosmetics UK | Lip Pencil | Cremestick Liner | Official UK Site. [online] Available at: http://www.maccosmetics.co.uk/product/shaded/167/1092/Products/Lips/Lip-Pencil/Cremestick-Liner/index.tmpl [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014].

8. My photo of lip swatched I did.

9. My photo of eye colour swatches I did 
Tanya Taylor:

first two in text citations 


FACEBOOK.COM

NARS Backstage - Tanya Taylor SS15 | Facebook

In-text: (Facebook.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Facebook.com, (2014). NARS Backstage - Tanya Taylor SS15 | Facebook. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152587888051387.1073741842.53590256386&type=3 [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014].

10.. FBCDN-SPHOTOS-E-A.AKAMAIHD.NET

In-text: (Fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net, 2014)
Bibliography: Fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net, (2014). [online] Available at: https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10690131_10152587888461387_2707303246748646818_n.jpg?oh=b87ab3ad80649ed7a887db9f4055995f&oe=55162956&__gda__=1426494467_f1c12269b3f902e228c340a842f843f0 [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014].

11. Image and hair info

NYC, S.

On Wednesday We Wear Braids | 'Dream Doll' Braids For Tanya Taylor SS15

In-text: (NYC, 2014)
Bibliography: NYC, S. (2014). On Wednesday We Wear Braids | 'Dream Doll' Braids For Tanya Taylor SS15. [online] Stranded NYC. Available at: http://www.strandednyc.com/dream-doll-braids-for-tanya-taylor-ss15/ [Accessed 7 Dec. 2014].

12. My face chart of Zac Posen SS15.

13. My face chart of Tanya Taylor SS15.

Wednesday, 3 December 2014

Chanel Allure Lumière Lip gloss campaign!

So for our campaign research, my first choice is the campaign for Chanel's new Rouge Allure Gloss. 

It features Sigrid Agren as the model. I chose this campaign as it's really striking and the make up is beautiful, I was flicking through the Vogue November 2014 issue and actually stopped as it is that eye catching. 

The message I think its portraying a seductive, sultry, sexy mysterious women, with this product as her weapon of choice to allure. I get this from the dark shadows engulfing her hair, and closing in around her face. Also you can see part of her arm which from what you can see and the angle is telling me that she's lying on her side, which is quite seductive positioning. The other thing that confirms this for me is the heavy mascara and the way her eyes are penetrating the reader, sucking them in. 

I believe the shade of Allure Lip gloss she is wearing is 'Seductive' I feel that Chanel have marketed the shade for evening wear, due to the dark background, and sultry aspect of the campaign.

The skin is matt porcelain in colour and flawless, I would imagine that they used the Chanel Perfection Lumière liquid foundation , in shade 20 beige, then set using Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre in shade 30 naturel. The cheeks have a slight amount of bronzer but the lighting in the advert give the model the fierce contour. I think that they've done the foundation this shade so the lipstick colour is the focus, it pops against its background, ensuring that its the focus. The eye's feature a metallic shadow only a slight amount as the main focus is the lips, this same shade is also applied along the bottom of the lower lash line. The eyelashes are natural but heavy mascara has been applied, I believe this is to fixate the reader and draw them in.

It could have been inspired by the Zac Posen SS15 make up look as it has the same porcelain matt skin, with the bold red lip and soft eyes.  

The people responsible for both the advert and the shoot are:  

Photographer: Slve Sundsbo
Director: Solve Sundsbo
Fashion Editor/Stylist: Charlotte Collet
Hair Stylist: Anthony Turner
Makeup Artist: Lucia Pica
Model: Sigrid Agren (MODELS.com, 2014)


1. Photo I took from Vogue magazine November 2014 issue


2. Close up photo I took from Vogue magazine November 2014 issue


3. Chanel rouge allure lip gloss in shade seduction 
References:

Foundation Link: 

CHANEL.COM

PERFECTION LUMIÈRE

In-text: (Chanel.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Chanel.com, (2014). PERFECTION LUMIÈRE. [online] Available at: http://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fragrance-beauty/Makeup-Foundations-PERFECTION-LUMI%C3%88RE-126509?sku=126520 [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Powder Link:

CHANEL.COM

POUDRE UNIVERSELLE LIBRE

In-text: (Chanel.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Chanel.com, (2014). POUDRE UNIVERSELLE LIBRE. [online] Available at: http://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fragrance-beauty/Makeup-Powders-POUDRE-UNIVERSELLE-LIBRE-95609?sku=95611 [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].


'Advert' Link: 

YOUTUBE

ROUGE ALLURE GLOSS: intense color, lacquered shine - CHANEL

In-text: (YouTube, 2014)
Bibliography: YouTube, (2014). ROUGE ALLURE GLOSS: intense color, lacquered shine - CHANEL. [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_B7K4eiinw [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

In text citation- (MODELS.com, 2014)

MODELS.COM

CHANEL ROUGE ALLURE GLOSS 2014 (Chanel Beauty)

In-text: (MODELS.com, 2014)
Bibliography: MODELS.com, (2014). CHANEL ROUGE ALLURE GLOSS 2014 (Chanel Beauty). [online] Available at: http://models.com/Work/chanel-beauty-chanel-rouge-allure-gloss-1 [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Image 1: My own photo from Vogue magazine, November 2014 issue.

Image 2: My own photo from Vogue magazine, November 2014 issue.

Image 3: 

CHANEL.COM

In-text: (Chanel.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Chanel.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fragrance-beauty/cms2export//Site6Files/file129607/163180_a_LARGE.jpg [Accessed 4 Dec. 2014].

Julien d'ys

Julien d'ys
I have chosen Julien d'ys as my hair stylist, for his extreme avant garde approach to hair. His talent is unbelievable, below is a mood board of some of his work;




Julien D'ys (born Pierrick Le Verge1955) is a French hair stylist, photographer, set designer and painter. 

He is what I would call a hair guru, I'm pretty sure there is nothing he could not recreate or reinvent and make trendy again! He has worked with so many designers, make up artists, models and actors, it is crazy! From Kate Moss, to John Galliano, to Dior, to Pat McGrath, Balenciaga, D & G, and many more! He even featured in the original 101 Dalmatians Disney film, doing Cruella DeVille's hair!

I love him because of his creativity, of his hair designs, he never ceases to amaze, I think this factor is because of his other jobs as a painter and set designer, this brings a whole other dimension to his hair as its like artwork, he can incorporate all this into his hair. Also the fact that he is a photographer he knows what his creations would look like through a lens, which allows him to see his designs in that light, therefore they always look amazing on camera. I think it's these  factors that set him aside from others.

He is a go to for the majority of designers when they are doing a show or campaign that wants to be noticed, or flamboyant, I think this has led him to be a major influence and inspiration in the industry. 

To see his impressive work for yourself follow the link to his website!

References:

1. JULIENDYS.COM

In-text: (Juliendys.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Juliendys.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.juliendys.com/campagne%20galliano/Sasha-Gang%20of%20New%20York/thumb.jpg [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].

2. VLASY-UCESY-KADERNICTVI.CZ

In-text: (Vlasy-ucesy-kadernictvi.cz, 2014)
Bibliography: Vlasy-ucesy-kadernictvi.cz, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.vlasy-ucesy-kadernictvi.cz/public/images/looks/000/145-Picture-1.png [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].

3. VOGUE US
Mars 2013

Photographer - Tim Walker
Model - Elza Luijendijk
Hair Stylist - Julien d'Ys

Fashion Editor: Phyllis Posnick

JULIENDYS.COM

In-text: (Juliendys.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Juliendys.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.juliendys.com/news/vogueusmars2013/images/img710.jpg [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].

4. VOGUE US
Mai 2013

Photographer - Mario Testino
Talent - Carey Mulligan
Hair Stylist - Julien d'Ys

Fashion editor - Grace Coddington

JULIENDYS.COM

In-text: (Juliendys.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Juliendys.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.juliendys.com/news/mai2013/vogue_mai/images/carey-mulligan-cover-8_15045155816.jpg [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].

5. MUSEBEAUTYPROBLOG.COM

In-text: (Musebeautyproblog.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Musebeautyproblog.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.musebeautyproblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/537682_620433301316876_1733338095_n-1-418x600.jpg [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].

6. VOGUE US
Mai2013

Photographer - Peter Lindbergh
Model - Clara Delevingne & Tom Hiddleston
Hair Stylist - Julien d'Ys

Fashion Editor - Tonne Goodman

JULIENDYS.COM

In-text: (Juliendys.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Juliendys.com, (2014). [online] Available at: http://www.juliendys.com/news/mai2013/vogue_mai_lindbergh/images/154978-800w.jpg [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].

7. PLEASUREPHOTO.FILES.WORDPRESS.COM

In-text: (Pleasurephoto.files.wordpress.com, 2014)
Bibliography: Pleasurephoto.files.wordpress.com, (2014). [online] Available at: https://pleasurephoto.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/irving-penn-collaborated-with-phyllis-posnick-to-photograph-lisa-cant-in-a-lace-mask-in-2005-julien-d_ys-sprayed-her-hair-white-save-for-one-stray-wisp-e2809cthere-are-no-accidentse2809d.jpg [Accessed 1 Dec. 2014].


Hair lesson 9, 02.12.14 The Chignon!

Hair lesson 9, tutor, Emma Croombs, 02.12.14

Chignon

Step-by-step:

 - Set up, following all health and safety regulations

 - Section the hair into 3, 2 at the front section ending in line with the ears. One at the back.

 - Pull back section into a low pony at the nape of the neck, making sure it’s tight to the head, smooth and free from bumps.

 - Dress other 2 sections out how you want them, making sure to secure them at the nape with grips, or tutor Emma twisted them, the hair was pulled tight and over the ears.

 - Dress out the hair at the nape into your desired style, our tutor Emma did a cluster of curls.

Overview and evaluation of the lesson:

So in this lesson we used our dolly heads, I went to use mine, but it was all clogging together because of all the products, and so frizzy due to the volume lesson last week. So I decided to wash my dolly head, also it would give me some more blow drying practice for our assessment next week.

When washing my dolly head I was careful to make sure the hair all stayed in the same directions, not vigorously washing like you would with normal hair, as it will just become one big knot which would be impossible to tackle in the lesson.

I then took my dolly head over to my station, towel dried the excess water. I sectioned the hair into 3, using sectioning clips; 2 at the front, 1 at the back I then blow dried straight using a round brush, making sure all the strands were facing in the same straight direction, aiming the hair-dryer downwards, close to the hair, bringing down small sections at a time. I repeated this until the full head was dry. I smoothed some Vitapoint over the hair and through the ends to give the hair a nice, smooth, shiny finish.

I then followed the step from earlier. As I was just about to dress the hair out, it was 5 minutes until the end of the lesson, therefore I did not have time to finish my chignon, my teacher came over and showed me how to dress a chignon really quickly, once the side sections had been clipped back to the nape of the neck, split into two, twist hair, tie with a hair band, then twist into bun shape and secure.


Next time I do a volume lesson I will definitely be taking my dolly head home to straighten the hair as it caused me to run out of time. I have done chignons before though so it’s not the end of the world, although I was disappointed I didn’t have a style at the end. 

My teacher Emma Croomb's 'quick' Chignon on my dolly head

My teacher Emma's Chignon right side view on my dolly head

My teacher Emma's Chignon left side view on my dolly head



Examples of textured chignons from our teacher Emma Croombs

Examples of red carpet style chignons from our teacher Emma Croombs

Monday, 1 December 2014

Fashion make up lesson 8! 25.11.14. Full timed catwalk looks!!

So for this lesson we were told to set up, get into pairs, then we were each given a laminated A4 poster of a catwalk make up look.We were told we had to recreate this look on our partners, and given a 45 minute time limit!




I was very nervous about my picture I was given as it featured vivid blue winged lids,, flawless skin, bright red glossy lips, and a pink blush, I felt I didn't have the right products in my kit. With the time limit in place as well I really had to think on my feet!

Step-by-step:

- I cleansed and toned and moisturised my models face, making sure I had a clean base, and checking she was ok with the products I was using, and made sure she had no allergies and wasn't wearing contacts.

- Once I was happy I applied MAC Face and Body foundation in C1 as it was a perfect match for my model , I applied with a foundation brush, then buffed with a bronzing brush to give a lovely dewy, natural finish to the skin.

- I then applied concealer, I used a mix of pink, a light beige and touch of yellow combined, I applied this to a small area on the cheek that had a blemish and under the eyes, using a concealer brush. I then buffed in with a my bronzer brush.

- For the blue eye shadow I used the blue from my Ben Nye colour palette, I used a small angle brush to outline the shape, when I put it onto the lid it came out quite grey, so I decided to put a white eye shadow from my tutor's screenface shadow palette, inside the line I'd drawn so the blue would pop more, I was really pleased with the results. I wiped up droppage from beneath the eye using a cotton pad with a littler bit of toner, then buffed over using the bronzer brush I was using before.

- Next I applied MAC Haute & Naughty Mascara using a mascara applicator from my brush kit I applied quite a heavy amount to the top lashes, and only a small amount to the bottom lashes, mimicking the picture.

- I then applied a light concealer colour with a touch of yellow added to it, to the water line, using an angle brush, as in the photo it looks as if a metallic cream colour has been used.

- I then used my tutors screenface shadow palette again this time using a mix of a silver and bronze colour and placed using a small round brush, beneath the bottom lashes.

- I then set the base with translucent powder, using a fan brush in shade neutral.

-  The eyebrows looked really natural so as my model as really good structure to her eyebrows and no gaps I just went over with eyebrow gel to define and shape.

- I then moved onto the lips I lined them with MAC lip liner in Cherry Red.

- Then I used MAC Ruby Woo lipstick, to fill, I used a lip brush to apply the lipstick, to avoid cross contamination. Due to Ruby Woo being a matt lipstick and the lipstick in the photo was a glossy lipstick, So I added a small amount of Vaseline over the top of the lips using the same lip brush as before.

- I then used my Kryolan lip palette, to mix a blush colour, I used a mix of a strong pink, a light pink and a tiny amount of the deep red, I applied to my models face using my hands (I checked that this was ok before I did it) to the apples of her cheeks then along the cheekbone slightly. I then blended and softened using my bronzer brush.

- I then set with translucent power again using the same fan brush.

Overview & Evaluation of the lesson:

Overall I'm really proud of myself in this lesson, I believe I was given a challenge considering the contents of my kit, I rose to that challenge and had to think fast. I surprised myself because instead of getting in a fluster I just stopped for a second and thought logically, came up with a solution and followed it through. I'm really happy with my final outcome, in terms of being under a time limit, but if I was to redo I would line the lips better, and if I had had a choice I would have used a crème colour on the eye, and line the shape using a blue eyeliner pencil, to achieve the sharpness and definition, that the photo has. Apart from that I'm really happy with the coverage, and blush, the eyelashes, and brows.

Products I used

Lips close up, I wasn't happy with it could have been a smoother line, but for the added time pressure ill take it.

Eyelid close up

End result

Side view

Face on

My model with image