Lesson 6 Lips!

Lesson 6, 11.11.14, Tutor, Branka

Lips

What you’ll need:

• Black eye-liner pencil
• Red lip pencil
• Vaseline
• Glitter
• Red Matt lipstick
• Kryolan Lip palette

Tutor Demo:

Step-by-step Guide Lip Look 1: Matt red lip:

• Use a lip liner and mark out the cupid’s bow and the bottom of lip
• Work your way out to the edges; slightly fill in the corners of the lips as this is where the lipstick will begin to fade first.
• Branka used Ruby Woo matt lipstick by MAC, take a lip brush and fill lips in starting in the middle, and work your way out.
• Take a tissue and place over lips, use an eye shadow brush with translucent powder on, and brush over the tissue on the lip. There are lots of small holes in the tissues so it will sit on the lip.
• Go back over with lip brush to make sure you cover any powder residue.

Step-by-step Guide, Look 2: Ombre Lip:

• 08 & 10 from the Kryolan lip palette, combine.
• Line the lip using a lip brush, with the combined lip sticks, start with the cupids bow & bottom, then work your way out.
• Fill in from middle to outsides.
• Line lips using black eye-liner and either a small flat lip brush, or an angle brush.
• Get model to open mouth and put the eye-liner in the corners of mouth.
• Using the same lip brush as before blend in the corners to soften the lines.
• Add ruby woo by MAC into the centre

Step-by-step Guide, Look 3: Glitter Lip:

• Use MAC black track eye-liner with a lip brush all over lip
• Add Vaseline over the top
• Using a clean brush apply glitter all over the top
• Remove any rogue glitter from hairs around lips using mascara applicator brush, to gently brush away.
• Remove excess with masking tape

Lesson Overview & evaluation: 

Overall I found today a really fun lesson, I really loved experimenting with the glitter, I’ve never done glitter lips before so it was interesting to see how it is done, and test it out, although it was so messy, I have a feeling ill be finding glitter all over the place for a while! 

I also think that lining lips is definitely one of my weaker areas so it was so good for me personally to get to do it over and over and at such a fast pace! Although I'm not 100% happy with my final lips on all three demo's, the lip liner when I took a photo looks really uneven, which I'm not pleased about. 

I definitely need to put a lot of practice in! I would also go for a finer glitter, as the one I picked was quite chunky so didn’t have as much sparkle as the other options! 
Although out of the colour options we had available (blue/bronze/green/black) I thought that the black suited my model the most! 
I shall be doing some practice sessions on all three looks over the weekend, along with the smoky eye from last week, a post will follow shortly after....

My Matt Red Lip

My Matt Red Lip

My teacher Branka's ombre lip demo

My ombre lip

My Glitter Lip

My Glitter Lip

Eyeliner Techniques

Fashion trends Lesson 5 Eye liner techniques 21/10/14, Tutor, Branka

Applying Eye-liner

Liquid eye-liner:

• Use fine small brush
• Get your model to close their eyes lift brow with finger
• Mark a dot in the centre
• Work your way from the dot outwards to both corners of the eye

Gel:

• Use angle brush
• Mark a dot in the middle
• Start from inside corner and work your way down
• Create the ‘flick’ by going back over yourself but covering a bigger area each time
• Gel creates a thicker line

Step-by-step Guide (Tutor Demo):

1. Cleanse models skin, leave liner in place.
2. MAC PRO full coverage yellow tone with a touch of pink for Alicia.
3. Branka used a foundation brush to lightly apply for a flawless skin
4. Use Kryolan derma palette to mix concealer, Branka went for a neutral tone with a touch of yellow
5. Branka used Pearl a light highlight from MAC, she placed on the apple of the cheek, under brow, top lip and on nose, blend in.
6. Translucent neutral powder to set face, use smaller brush for eye area.
7. Brush out brows
8. D11, D15, from derma palette to fill in brow, it’s great to use as it makes brows look slick and holds a lot longer.
9. Get creative with the liner and shadows
10. Apply lip liner to lips
11. Add lipstick Branka went for a neon pink

Overview & evaluation of the Lesson: 

I loved this lesson, my model had great skin, which has yellow undertones so I used the MAC face & body C3 mixed with the Kryolan derma palette I used a yellow tone and a slight pink tone, once I was happy I tested by the neck and I managed to nail her colour first time! Yay! 

I applied using a stippling sponge I much prefer these to a foundation brush as they don’t leave marks. Once I was happy with the coverage I used my bronzing brush to buff the skin to make sure there were no sponge marks and personally I feel it works really well with the MAC face and body as it’s such a liquidy product that it needs warming up and working for it to thicken up, so I think buffing it does this effectively and is quicker when you have a time limit, it also gives off a lovely dewy finish. 

When doing the eye-liner, we had to try both types of liner and brushes I much preferred the gel liner using the angle brush. It was a smooth and steady line; I felt I had much more control in contrast to using the small fine brush with the liquid liner, I don’t know of it was because the smallest brush in our kit isn't that firm, and is quite long which makes it more difficult to control, either way the angle brush is more for me, I like the stability of it. I was happy with my eye-liners, they were even and neat which is what I was aiming for, so am pleased about that...also if I was to make mistake with the MAC black track liner it would have been a nightmare, because once it dries its near impossible to get off without having to take off the whole eye and the make-up around it!!  

When doing the brow I decided to go for a thicker brow with definition...think- Cara Delevingne. So on the top line of the brow instead of doing one exact line I used small almost sketching strokes to make up the brow which I thought gave a really good effect. 

With the freestyle eye-liner I chose to do a Twiggy inspired eye, I had fun with the eyebrow so decided to carry the theme through, I created the dots under the lower lash line using MAC Black track eye-liner and my small angle brush. 

For the lips I decided to go for a hot pink, what I really loved about the colour is that it made my models eyes pop; they were a searing blue so the hot pink really complimented that! 

It was really nice to be able to do some freestyle stuff this lesson, as we haven’t done that yet! Looking forward to the next lesson!

Mac Vanilla pigment 

Inspiration for eye-liners from Branka

Branka's Demo

My gel liner with a small angle brush

My liquid liner with small thin brush 

Eye open

Finished look

Without the sectioning clips in!

Twiggy liner

Finished look

Volume Blow-dry

Hair lesson 5, 11.11.14, Tutor, Emma Croombs

Volume Blow-drying

What you’ll need:

• Dolly head
• Clamp
• Hair-dryer
• Water spray
• Sectioning clips
• Round Brushes
• Paddle Brush
• Pintail/tail comb
• Serum
• Velcro Rollers

Tutor Demo:

1. Brush through dolly head using a Paddle brush
2. Section off hair into 3 sections, 2 at the front & 1 at the back using a pintail/tail comb, secure sections using sectioning clips.
3. From the back drop down a small section and secure rest back up with a sectioning clip.
4. Put hair-dryer onto hot setting and high speed, depending on the hair length/thickness etc, will depend on the size of round brush you use, for the dolly head Emma used a medium sized round brush.
5. Place round brush under section and lift up guiding your hair-dryer over the top, nozzle facing directly onto the hair. The reason you lift the hair whilst blow-drying is because you want volume with this blow dry in contrast to the straight blow dry we did over the last 2 lessons.
6. Repeat steps until full head is done.
7. If you were doing this on set, and for example; the model etc wasn’t due on set for another hour pop in Velcro rollers to hold the volume.
8. Dress/add serum/back comb after Velcro rollers have been removed.

Lesson Overview & evaluation: 

I really enjoyed this lesson, I thought I had achieved good volume and removed all kinks from the hair, along with a good shine. 

My blow-drying technique definitely improved since last time, I managed to finish the full head in quite quick time, which I was pleased about as I'm usually pushed for time and end up rushing to finish. 

My initial blow dry had a middle parting, because I still had time left I also did a side parting, and then put a full head of Velcro rollers in to hold the volume, I also used the Velcro rollers to smooth out the ends of my dolly head as they were quite frizzy. 

I did a directional set with my rollers to achieve maximum volume in the directions I wanted, I thought the placement of my rollers worked really well. I was happy with the final look, and thought I'd followed the brief well.

 The one thing that I feel I need to practice on is getting more comfortable with alternating between the brush and the hair-dryer, make it a cleaner transition, apart from that I was really happy with how the lesson went, which feels strange to say as I'm usually very self critical.

I sectioned the hair into 3

Example of volume a few sections in

Finished result with a middle parting, no rollers

Side view

After I'd blow dried into a side parting

Straight on view

Dolly head put into Velcro rollers

Front view rollers

Side view rollers

Final look after rollers

Front view of my final look

Smokey eyes!

04.11.14 Fashion trends lesson 5, Tutor Branka

Smokey eye (red carpet)

What you’ll need:

• Black track MAC eye-liner
• Small applicator brush
• Concealer brush
• Cleanser, toner, moisturiser
• Cotton buds, and wool
• Ben Nye colour palette
• MAC eye shadow palette
• Buffering brush
• Eye brushes
• Foundation brush
• Kryolan derma palette
• Mixing medium
• MAC face and body foundation
• Angle brushes
• Ben Nye translucent powder
• MAC brow pencils
• Smudger brushes
• Blusher brush
• MAC lip liners
• MAC lipsticks
• Kryolan lip palette
• Mac vanilla power
• Eye glitter
• Vaseline
• Mascara
• Mascara applicators or small fan brush

Technique tutorial from Branka:

• Prep models face
• Apply MAC black track eyeliner across lid, all over ending just beneath crease.
• Blend line upwards using a clean concealer brush
• Soften edges using a cotton bud
• Using the same small applicator as used to apply the lid, place along the waterline.
• Use concealer brush to dab on Ben Nye black eye shadow over the look to intensify the black colour
• Use MAC eye shadow palette, colour brulee under brow
• Buffering brush, use brown colours together into the crease line to warm the skin tone, gently blend in.
• Go back in with a little more black shadow on the lid.
• Use buffering brush with brown colour that’s left on it back over socket liner.
• Apply foundation and concealer.
• Set using translucent powder
• Fill in brows using MAC brow pencil either lingering colour good for blondes, light brunette, & red heads, stud colour is good for- dark hair colours.
• Use a small angle brush to blend line in using brown eye shadows.
• Use either a mini smudger brush or small angle brush and put black shadow under eye.
• Go over with buffering brush that you've previously used to blend and soften with the brown shadow.
• Using a mini smudger add highlight to the corner of the eye and blend upwards, you don’t want it to appear white.
• Apply contour to cheekbones, and temples using a darker shade of foundation using an angle brush
• Apply highlighter (MAC vanilla pigment) to Cupids bow, top of chin, temples, top of the cheekbones.
• Apply a blush.
• Apply a lip liner.
• Apply lip stick
• Apply glitter to all over the black on the lid secure using Vaseline for a quick fix or for long lasting (MAC shine make-up mixer) tiny amount.

Overview & evaluation of the lesson: 

So I paired up with my classmate Zainab, who I've never worked with before and has a dark skin tone, which I've never worked with before either so I was looking forward to a change and possibly a challenge! 

I prepared her face so I had a clean surface to work on. With the eye I found it really hard to work fast enough to be able to blend the MAC black track eye-liner upwards without it setting, I think maybe I didn’t apply a thick enough layer, as it was drying so fast, if it was thicker it would have taken longer to dry. So I applied the Ben Nye black shadow over the top and blended that upwards.

After I applied the two different brow shadows I blended it all together, I feel that I blended them all well together and was happy with the end result.

Now this is where I really struggled...the foundation!!! My models skin was beautiful so there was literally no need for concealer but she has different shades on her face, her forehead and chin being the darkest places, then the rest of her face was a bronze golden colour, so at first I mixed a darker colour but it looked too dark over her entire face, so I mixed a lighter colour but because I didn’t have a really harsh yellow to mix in with the foundation it kept looking quite grey on her face, so I added in some make-up mixing medium to lighten it and in hope that it would be a lighter application, but it was too light to cover the dark areas.

So after a lot of trial and error I decided to mix in some darker tones from my derma palette into the light mix I had created, then I also mixed up a lighter foundation with no mixing medium, I chose to apply with my fingers as I feel more comfortable so I literally dabbed the two different colours over the face put more light onto the dark areas, and more dark onto the lighter areas then used my bronzer brush to buff and blend, using circular motions. 

It was the end of the lesson by the time I finished the foundation so I quickly filled in my models eyebrows using MAC brow pencil in Stud colour, which I found a piece of cake as she had had them threaded the day before so there was a good clean shape and line to work with.

Overall I was annoyed that it took me so long to come up with a solution for my foundation issues as it left me with an incomplete look, also I really wanted to get some practice in with the things I feel I need to work on more such as, lip lining and contouring which I didn’t get a chance to do. But I am glad that I fixed the solution myself, and in the end I think I achieved a good base, I was also happy with the Smokey eye. I will definitely be investing in a yellow concealer colour for my kit for the future, because if I was on a job with a time limit I wouldn't have been able to do it!

Lesson Overview

Branka's demo

Side view of Branka's demo

Closed eyes of Branka's demo

My end result

Close up of eyes

Side view eyes open

Side view eyes closed

Hair lessons 3&4- wash & straight blow-drying

21.10.14/04.11.14, Hair lessons 3 & 4, Shampoo, Condition, & Blow dry hair straight, Tutor, Emma Croombs

Aim: 
To perform shampooing and conditioning techniques, and then achieve a straight blow dry, working in pairs.

Equipment needed:

• Shampoo
• Conditioner
• Paddle brush
• Denman brush
• Wide tooth comb
• Pintail comb
• Sectioning clips
• Mousse
• Small towels X 2
• Hair-dryer with nozzle
• Round brushes

Step-by-step Guide:

• Set up
• Place gown on client
• Place a small towel on back of client tucking into their gown, place another on the front, tucking into neckline, this will assure that if water drips/spills onto client that the towels will soak it up and protect your clients clothes.
• Carry out a thorough consultation; Check clients hair type to see if its dry/soft/frizzy etc, and scalp for any skin conditions/ infections it’s really important to know about what is contagious and what isn't, not just for contamination, if it’s not contagious they may need certain products, and if they have a certain hair type, certain products will work better for them, also knowing this will also enable you to give them great after care advice.
• If everything is fine, brush through their hair using paddle brush.
• Take them over to basin, guide their head into the rest, make sure you have all their hair in the basin.
• Turn on the tap once your happy with the temperature, test on client, always check that their happy and adjust if needed.
• Wet all hair cupping your hand around the hair line to make sure that water does not go onto the clients face or clothes.
• Turn off tap when working shampoo and conditioner in.
• Wash twice. Take a small amount of shampoo and work into the client’s hair using Effleurage- Gentle stroking & Rotary- quick, small circular movements, it may not lather up much on the first wash. Rinse thoroughly and repeat.
• Take some conditioner and work through hair, it will need time to work into the hair, so whilst its working in, massage your clients head using motions such as; Effleurage- gentle stroking movements, Rotary- quick, small circular movements, & Petrissage- slow, deep circular kneading movements. When you’re finished slowly drag hands off clients head as they will hopefully be relaxed so any abrupt movements won’t be nice.
• Rinse conditioner out.
• Ring out excess water, and place towel around clients head.
• Brush through hair using wide tooth comb
• Squirt a handful of mousse into your hand, and run through clients hair, this will add volume and texture.
• Section the hair using a pintail comb, 2 sections at the front and one at the back leaving a small section at the bottom out as this is your first blow-drying section. Secure sections using sectioning clips.
• Use a Denman brush for straight blow drying, put your hair-dryer on a warm setting always check that the temperature is ok for your client. Place brush underneath hair at root and hair-dryer on top this will secure your hair and stop it from falling. Make sure nozzle is pointing downwards on hair, as you want to achieve a straight look. Repeat until section is dry.
• Bring down next section and repeat above until the full head is dry and straight.

Overview & evaluation of lessons: 

So the first lesson I was the model for the teacher so had my hair washed and half my hair dried by our tutor Emma and the other half dried by a classmate, so I didn’t get a chance to do anything.

The second lesson I washed and blow dried my classmate Charlotte's hair, it was very clean and it’s quite thin, so I only shampooed once. I feel that I was very vigilant in checking she was ok throughout. I didn’t get any water on her, and she enjoyed my massaging techniques! I was happy with my blow drying; I feel like I finished in quick time and achieved a good straight blow dry. I have the advantage of previously working in a salon so have blow dried before, although not for a long time, I was surprised that techniques came rushing back to me, but am grateful they did. Overall I felt the lesson went smoothly, and I enjoyed it.

Some tools I used

My models hair wet

Finished result

Side view

Hair Lesson 2- Brick set for volume

14.10.14, Hair lesson 2, Tutor, Emma Croombs

Brick Woven Set for big volume

Aim: 

To achieve a brick set, using large rollers to achieve big volume, and dress out into simple style. Think Cheryl Fernandez Versini or Nicole Scherzinger.

Tip: 

It’s good to use a round brush and blows dry the ends of the hair when the hair is dry to smooth them so you get even consistency throughout. If the hair is thin blow dry the roots.

Equipment needed:

• Dolly head
• Clamp
• Mousse
• Hairspray
• Setting Lotion
• Pintail comb
• Postiche brush
• Paddle brush
• Wide tooth comb
• Carmen Heated rollers
• Pins
• Hair-dryer if needed

Step-by-step Guide:

• Turn on heated rollers so they have time to reach optimum temperature
• Set up
• Brush through hair from bottom to top using paddle brush
• Put a handful of mousse into your hand and work through hair.
• Take your first section from the middle of the front of the head, spray with setting lotion, brush section through if the mousse has tangled it, you want a smooth section to get a clean curl. Roll at a 90 degree angle towards the head, so the curl is away from the face and its nice and tight for bigger volume.
• Tuck in ends with pintail comb.
• Secure with a hair pin.
• Repeat steps for rest of the head, making sure when you get to the second row to place rollers in between previous, to achieve a brick formation.
• Leave rollers to cool completely.
• Remove rollers from front of the head towards the back. When removing rollers try to keep the shape of the roll after you have removed the roller you can always use hair pins/grips to hold roll.
• Don’t worry about pinning the final roll of rollers, take a wide tooth comb and brush through curls gently, work your way to the front of the head, removing pins as you go if you have used them.
• If the ends are too curly you can use a round brush to brush through and smooth, for a smoother effect,, or if you have the time use large Velcro rollers on worst sections & go over with a warm hair-dryer.
• When dressing out the hair add extra volume by back-combing the sections. Take the sections hold at an angle where hair is the tightest, use Postiche brush, start from the middle of the section and pull down getting closer and closer and closer to the scalp, this ensures that you back-comb has optimum height and durability.
• Smooth hair using Postiche brush into desired style, I went for pulling back the back section of hair away from the face and leaving the front sections to cup and fall around the face.

Overview of & evaluation of Lesson: 

I really enjoyed this lesson and style, I found that I had got faster putting in the heated rollers as I had used them the day before in a different lesson, so had now used them a few times, I think my hands have started to adjust to the heat more. 

I thought that putting the mousse in before rolling is a great idea, as it gave my dolly head much more texture, which made it easier to back-comb and dress out, I think I would definitely do this if the hair I was working with had been recently washed, as it is usually quite fly away and soft. 

Overall I was happy with the end result I think it fitted the lesson’s brief and had good volume, I will definitely be doing this on my own hair as it holds volume for 2-3 days if it isn't washed. 

In terms of personal improvement I think that my rolls could have been neater, in terms of rolling it as there were some bumps in the hair when I removed the rollers. I also really need to make sure I tuck the fly away hair around the roller, as you can really notice them when you dress it out.

Back view of rollers

Side view of rollers

Front view of rollers

Finished result front view

Finished result back and side view

Hair lesson 1- wet roller setting

07.10.14 Hair lesson 1, Tutor, Emma Croombs

Wet set

Aim: 
To introduce a brick set & dress out into a simple style

Equipment Needed:

• Metal mesh rollers
• Dolly head
• Clamp
• Water spray
• Setting Lotion
• Hairspray
• Paddle brush
• Postiche brush
• Pintail comb
• Hair dryer
• Portable hair-dryer hood
• Pins

Definition of a Brick set: 
A brick set is used to stop the hair separating. It prevents gaps and achieves a more natural, flowing curl.

Step-by-step guide:

• Set up
• Brush through hair using paddle brush working from bottom to top.
• Use pintail comb to get a section of hair from the middle of the front of dolly head. Make sure your section is slightly smaller than your roller size.
• Spray section lightly with water, then with setting lotion, don’t wet it too much, you don’t want it to be dripping wet.
• Take largest roller size and hold hair at a 90 degree angle so your hair doesn't sag around the roller, the tighter it is, the better the curl you achieve.
• Use your pintail comb to tuck the ends in as you don’t want a ‘hook end’.
• Make sure roller is sitting on its base so you don’t get a dip in the hair.
• Use pin to secure roller
• If you want to achieve smaller curls as you go down reduce roller size as you work your way down the head.
• Take your next section next to the roller you just put it, spray with water and setting lotion, as this section is on the side of the head hold hair at a 40 degree angle to achieve a tight roll.
• Repeat for the front row of the hair.
• For the next row place rollers in between the previous rollers, to create the brick formation.
• Repeat steps until a full head is complete.
• Place portable hood over your dolly head and trunk end over hair-dryer nozzle.
• Turn on your hair dryer to a warm setting, leave on for 15 mins.
• If you were doing this on a real person, you must make sure you check temperature is ok with them, especially using metal mesh rollers as metal contains heat.
• Turn off hair dryer and remove hood. Let the rollers cool completely otherwise the curls will drop.
• Take all rollers out.
• Use a Postiche brush to back-comb if there are any gaps in hair. 
• Once your happy with the style spray with hair spray to set.

Lesson Overview & evaluation: 

This was my second time at ever doing a brick set, with the first time being the day before! The advantage in this lesson being that we weren't using hot rollers, so I felt I had more control as I wasn't getting my fingers burnt, or trying to put the rollers super fast so they don’t cool. 

I felt happy with my brick set, but some of the mesh rollers I used, the mesh had ripped or was more in the middle or to the side so I had to put some of the hair into smaller sections before rolling, so it would fit in the space I had to work with on the roller. Also due to there only being so many rollers for the class I ended up using all different sizes, and then for the last few rolls I had to use plastic rollers as all the metal mesh ones had run out. 

This ended up turning into a bit of a catastrophe, as the plastic ones were directly in front of the opening in the hood where the hot air comes through, after 5 minutes, I smelt burning so quickly removed the hood and discovered that the plastic rollers had started to melt! Nightmare! 
I removed the melted rollers as quickly as I could! Luckily they didn't melt into the hair and I got them out quickly, I'm just thankful that I didn’t leave the hood on for the full 15 minutes and that I didn’t have the hair-dryer on the hottest setting... and that it was a dolly head and not a real person, otherwise it may have been a tad worse!! 

So apart from that hiccup and all my different roller sizes I thought it went quite well! I didn’t have any hook ends which I was pleased about.

 I would like to buy some mesh rollers and try a wet set on my dolly head or a friend at home, obviously because the practice will be good, but also I think the finished look would look really good if the rollers were in good condition and they were gradually reduced in size, not all different sizes in an erratic way as they were during the lesson. 

I think this look would look really good for a night out, as you can prep the hair before then remove the rollers and dress out the hair when you want, also the hold would be great, especially for fine, soft hair like my own which always drops, it would be great for adding texture and volume and long lasting hold.

1. Immediately after rollers had been taken out

2. Charlotte Spencer's dolly head

3. Finished look

4. Side view

References:

2. My classmate Charlotte Spencer's dolly head.